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One of the many housing compounds with their own small temples |
The Maasdam docked in Benoa (Denpasar), Bali, in the sweltering heat. One just had to step outside onto the deck and feel damp in an instant. Good old humidity...
Many Indonesian staff on board were looking forward to getting off to see friends and family, others who had to work were looking forward to welcoming their families on board for a couple of hours.
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Roundabout in Klungkung |
Guests were soon heading off the ship on organised tours or seeing Bali under their own steam. As we headed off the ship there was entertainment on the pier - dancers and music. Much as I would have liked to stop to take a photograph - time was not on my side. I had to pass through security checks including checking that we weren't taking any food off the ship before getting onto the bus.
We were soon underway for the tour (Historic and Scenic Bali). Unfortunately the microphone on the bus wasn't very good so at times those at the back couldn't hear very well. It didn't help either that the bus’s engine made quite a racket. Our guide really tried his best to increase the microphone volume and also talk louder but in the end we had to make do with what we could hear (or not).
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Artist at work in the floating pavilion, Klungkung |
We passed through town and out into the countryside, passing temples, housing compounds (where quite a few family members or generations of families all stay together), jungle, paddy fields, hills... It was quite exotic. Our first stop was to visit the Klungkung Keragosa, a building built in 1710. The compound contains the floating pavilion and the Kertagosa Royal Court of Justice with its beautiful ceiling murals. Unfortunately there was a motorbike competition of some sorts in the village so the noise made it difficult to hear what our guide was saying.
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Pura Kehen Temple |
Back on the bus we headed to the Pura Kehen temple complex that was built during the 11th century. It was terraced, with steps leading up to the entrance door. Before we went up the steps local women tied a sarong around our waists and finished it off with a cloth belt. This was out of respect for the temple and its worshippers. Up the steep flights of steps of the temple we visited the outer, middle and inner courtyards of the temple. There was a huge banyan tree in the outer courtyard and part the way up it was a small wooden building which housed some bell ropes to ring bells for worship. The temple complex had an air of peace about it. It was lovely. At the end of the visit we gave the sarongs and belts back.
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Our lunch venue |
Next stop was lunch. We had to walk along paths to get to the venue which was set amongst fields and a pond where there was ducks swimming. It made for a pleasant venue and lunch itself was absolutely delicious.
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Village of Tenganan.
This woman is weaving Grinsing (flaming cloth). This one is a narrow
one, being a sash |
Our final stop was at the village of Tenganan where we saw weaving of unique cloth - Kamben Grinsing or 'flaming cloth' - which is believed to protect its weaver from evil. Cotton is dyed with natural products to produce the colour, such as ochre, turmeric, etc. It is quite time consuming process, depending on how deep the colour is that is required. After the colours are reached and the cotton dried, the cloth is woven by hand. It was an interesting process. Visitors could buy a sash or cloth, as well as trinkets and crafts. The village itself was interesting - living compounds arranged in two rows along a wide stone paved street that ran through the length of the village. Cockerels with dyed feathers were in small cages. These are often used in cockfights before ceremonies. One chap took out two cockerels and allowed them to fight but without spurs on - so it was 'harmless' fighting. I hang around very long to watch. Children were playing a game of football in an area at the top end of the village so we didn't walk further towards the jungle path. It was time to walk back to the bus.
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Children in Tenganan |
It was quite a long journey back to the ship and it was dark when we got back to the port terminal. My heart ached when I saw crew saying goodbye to their families who they might see in a few weeks’ time or a few months’ time. Some were crying. It is hard being away from family for so long. As I was walking along the pier towards the gangway a spotlight was switched on and beamed straight at me. It was Paul behind it all. He had seen me from the bridge and decided to light me up in a ship's spotlight. What a crazy but loveable chap! Crew and sailors at the gangway grinned at me and told me that I was the 'light of his life'! Sweet.
Paul was still on the bridge when I got in so I went to the lido restaurant to get some dinner. Admittedly I broke down in front of an Indonesian waitress when I saw her in the lido restaurant. Fortunately she is on board for another 16 days and then going home but my heart was torn for those who still have a while to go before they return home. I pulled myself together, had a quick meal and fled back to the cabin before any more tears were shed.
My impression of Bali? The people are poor but are seem happy and are rich in culture. Health and safety has not gone mad. It was lovely to see entire families on a scooter - 3 to 5 or more crammed on and often with no riding helmets. Life is simple, life is full of risks which is taken in their stride. No 'nanny state' taking the joy out of living. Their sense of freedom was lovely in so many ways.
The Maasdam has just set sail for Exmouth, Australia, 2 days sailing from Bali.
PHOTOGRAPHS
Klungkung
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Some sort of motorbike rally or competition being held below the statue |
Klungkung Keragosa Compound with floating pavilion and Kertagosa Royal Court of Justice
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Floating pavilion |
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Murals on the roof of the Royal Court of Justice |
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Royal Courts of Justice - tables and chairs painted in red and gold leaf |
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Murals and carvings on roof of the floating pavilion |
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Artist at work in the floating pavilion |
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View from the floating pavilion |
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The wall of the Klungkung Keragosa compound |
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Father and son |
Pura Kehen Temple complex
Tenganan Village
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Grinsing (flaming cloth) being woven |
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Display of Grinsing cloth |
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