Little Lolly's Small Adventures: November 2018

For the first few days of our stay in Lanzarote it rained so we made the most of the time to take a drive around the island to get an idea of what the place looked like and what we could do during our holiday.

There were vast lava fields - the volcanic landscape being beautiful in its own right and we look forward to visiting at least one volcano during our stay here in Lanzarote. We passed by Aloe Vera farms, vineyards (producing grapes for wine) and cacti plantations for cultivation of cochineal - a parasitic bug that feeds on the cacti - and for wine. The landscape changes on the island, depending on which are you go to. Some areas are quite green compared to the stark barren volcanic landscape.

Views from Mirador del Rio

When the rain eventually cleared we got out and about, exploring a bit more in depth.

Mirador del Rio on the very north west side of the island gave us spectacular views of the cliffs and across to the Parque Natural Archipiélago Chinijo on an island close by.

Cueva de los Verdes

One of the visits we did was to the Cueva de los Verdes or lava tubes/caves. The lava tubes/caves start as far back inland as one of the volcanoes, and run to the North Atlantic Ocean. During the tour though, one doesn't go right to the volcano nor as far as the coast, and tours from Cueva de los Verdes don't take you as far as Jameos del Agua; and if you do a tour from Jameos del Agua - the tours won't take you as far as Cueva de los Verdes even though it is one long cave/tube system. I'm sure plenty of speleologists would have a fun going there though! When we visited Cueva de los Verdes we went fairly early in the morning so we missed the crowds and we didn't have to queue long for the guided tour. It was very interesting being down in the cave system - a nice visit for anyone who doesn't get claustrophobic! There was even a 'concert hall' in the lava caves where performances take place because of good acoustics.

Further along the road is Jameos del Agua - also a site where you can visit the lava tubes and caves, and even see albino crabs. We decided not to visit it because the place was heaving with people.

We eventually got to visit one of the Aloe Vera Museums where you could find out more about the growing of Aloe Vera and why it is such a special plant, having many medicinal uses as well as being very good as a skin moisturiser.

In Mala, a village not far from where we were staying, we passed by the Cochineal Museum. It was a tiny nondescript building which got us curious so we went to find out what it was all about. Needless to say we learnt how a red natural dye is made - from insects that are a parasite to cacti.

Timanfaya Volcano Park

By way of a brief explanation, the insects are introduced to a cactus pad and they settle there and their life-cycle begins. Before before the female insects lay their eggs the level of carminic acid (the red colour) in their bodies is at their highest. So before they lay their eggs they are brushed off the cactus plant by hand, dried out in the sun or over a stove, and then crushed. The red dye is then extracted and made available for use as a food colourant, red lipstick, wool dye and much more. The prickly pear cacti are used but the thorns are taken off before the insects are introduced, to make brushing off the insects easier when the times comes.

I've found a website (click here for the link) that explains the process in more detail with photographs. However, in Lanzarote the cacti pads are left on the cactus plant whereas in website photograph the pads of infected cacti plants are hung up - making it easier for cultivation.

At some stage during the week we visited Teguise market. There was a lovely atmosphere and many stalls but it was very busy. Groups of tourists came to Teguise by coaches. Parking was at a premium and if you couldn't find a free parking spot or paid parking spot - you would have to park somewhere outside of the village and walk it. There was also a large food 'hall' in the square and we could sample the locally produced products - wine and food.

Lunch being cooked over geothermal heat

An evening market that we visited at Costa Teguise was not very big but, situated in a tiny square surrounded by restaurants and bars, one couldn't go far wrong about having a bite to eat.

At long last we managed to visit Timanfaya Volcano Park but we made sure that we got there fairly
early, before it got too busy. We drove along a narrow but good tarred road until we got to a car par. From there we were ushered onto a bus for the drive around the park - visitors are not allowed to drive around the park themselves. As the bus went through the park there was a taped commentary in in Spanish, German and English. The bus driver would stop now and then so that we could listen to the explanation given about our surroundings. It was very interesting. The landscape is very rugged, different colours of the minerals in the lava made it a beautiful sight though - from black lava to lovely reds and orange

Los Hervideros

colours. And even though there might seemingly not be any signs of life amongst the lava - there are those who try to eke out a living: lichens, tiny plants trying to establish themselves, insects, lizards and more.

At the end of the bus tour we went to the restaurant and could see food being cooked over geothermal heat - a vent with lava brick surrounds with a grid over the top on which metal platters of food were grilled. Outside the restaurant, a tourist guide would now and then demonstrate the of the power of geothermal heat. There were a few small funnels leading deep down into the earth into which a guide would pour a bucket of water and would stand back. Within a few seconds super heated steam would burst out. It was very interesting to watch.

Salt pans with the volcano park in the distance

Los Hervideros, more southwest along the coastline, was a good place to stop and explore some of
the effects of sea on the lava, with lava caves and tunnels through which the sea entered.

A bit further down from Los Hervideros were the salt pans. We didn't go to their visitor centre but instead we were happy to just look from the cliffs above.

What a wonderful week it has been so far!

PHOTOGRAPHS

Views from Mirador del Rio