Mountain Passes and the Road Ahead

View from Loibl Pass, Slovenia

Our chatty neighbours happened to go to see their neighbours 2 tents down from theirs - and they chatted well into the wee hours of the morning.  We were not impressed.  Needless to say I was a bit ratty when I got up this morning.

Yesterday's sun had taken its toll.  I am very red and sore, and tiny blisters have appeared all over my front torso.  Paul fared better because he has a different skin tone to mine.  I did have a good laugh though - seeing the scorch marks from the sun vz parts that didn't get burnt look really funny, eg. white skin where my boobs touched my skin!  Oh ...  and ladies - those nipples did get sunburnt too!  Having a t-shirt on today was painful enough let alone having my nipples chafed against material.

Despite being sunburnt - I still love the clothes-free environment, being closer to nature; feeling the sun, wind and water on the skin. I feel much more relaxed too.  This is a family-friendly campsite so there are people of all ages here, from babies to folk in their 80's, all without a stitch on (except in the campsite shop) unless they are going out of the camp.

High temperatures were predicted again today and are due to remain high for the rest of this week.

Looking back at the former Slovenian border post.  Austria is
 on the other side of the mountain pass/through the tunnel.

 As the morning's temperature rose we decided to see the cool of the air-conditioned car and go for a scenic drive into Slovenia and then see where the road took us.  We went to the start of the old road over Loibl Pass and discovered that the road was closed, being only open to walkers/one way track back towards us.  We ended up going through the tunnel into Slovenia then decided to go back into Austria via the old mountain pass but discovered that Slovenia side of the road was closed too.  Unfortunately our hesitancy on the road drew the police's attention and we were motioned to pull over into the car park (former Slovenian border post).  A friendly policeman asked us if we were ok and, after we explained that we were trying to find the original pass road, he confirmed that it was indeed closed to vehicle traffic and had been for some time. He did have a bemused look on his face - seeing us with our maps and satnav:  mad silly 'tourists'.


We saw some gorgeous views on both sides of the Loibl Pass, Austrian and Slovenian, although the Slovenian side of the pass had some very dramatic landscapes. River water was ice blue - a really pretty colour and not something that we have seen before.  We were pleasantly surprised to see how pretty Slovenia was - the parts that we drove though.  We came across the Vršič Pass (also called the Russian Pass because it was built by Russian WW1 prisoners of war) and decided to go up it. The scenery was gorgeous and the hairpin bends just kept coming!!  50 bends in total, not to be ventured on if one has a tendency to be car sick.  Going up the pass there was a memorial chapel in memory of the Russians POWS who got caught in an avalanche, R.I.P., whilst building the road.   We stopped to have a look and to also reflect on their hard work in the beautiful peaceful mountains.  There were roadworks on the narrow road and it caused a bit of a problem now and then for campervan drivers or those towing caravans, slowing up traffic behind them ('the great following'!).

You can see my pictures via this link:  Slovenia

From Slovenia we went over Passi di Predil into Italy and from what little 'smidge' of it that we saw on our way to Austria via another route, we didn't like what we saw.  It seemed messy and unkempt.  But that was only that tiny part of what we saw.  I believe Italy is a beautiful country.

We made it back to the campsite and because it was still very hot, had time for a swim in the lake before having dinner.  I was quite relieved to dispense with my shorts and t-shirt.  T-shirts and sunburnt nipples/stomach do not go very well together.

Tomorrow is another day.

Crispy-fried 😧

After yesterday's travels and setting up the tent we felt that we deserved a day of rest.  It was nice to sit, relax and do a bit of reading.

At around midday a brass band playing traditional music started playing near the lake and made their way slowly up the main through-route of the camp.  They were dressed in traditional clothing and looked really nice.  It made for a very cheerful atmosphere.  I felt sorry for the players though - they must have been very hot.  Later on they were playing outside the camp's restaurant, also in the full sun.

With the temperatures being over 30°C it was very hot, even in the shade.  We tried to keep out of the sun but without much success and re-learned a childhood lesson the hard way - put sunblock on or a t-shirt or you will get sun burnt.  We got crispy fried - mainly on our stomachs which were exposed to quite a bit of sun whilst sitting in our chairs reading.  We ended up having to get some Aftersun when the camp shop opened during the late afternoon.



I just hope we can get a decent night's sleep tonight - if the chatty neighbour shuts up/goes out...

Arrival at a Naturist Campsite at Last.

It was lovely falling asleep to the sound of the stream below our room last night and we also slept well.

Although we would have liked to have stayed in the area for a bit longer, we decided to keep travelling. We went downstairs to pay the bill but discovered that the door to the restaurant was locked.  It wasn't too early - around 10am so we expected to see the hotel's owner and no doubt he would like us to pay for our meal and overnight stay.  We spoke to a couple who had also been staying overnight.  They apparently had breakfast earlier and then the owner locked up and was going to town to do some shopping.  They tried to call the owner but the mobile phone was switched off.  I ended up writing a note to say that we wanted to pay but he wasn't in, and gave our contact details so that he could rings us with bill and bank information.  The couple advised that legally we could leave without paying if the owner was no where to be seen, but for us - honest is the best policy.  A cat waylaid us as we were about to leave and we gave her some attention - and then the owner appeared on the balcony, half-dressed (minus a shirt), advising that he 'would be down in a minute'.  He was the telephone call and the conversation seemed to go on for ages.  Eventually he went back inside and re-appeared fully dressed then came down to open the restaurant and give us our bill.

We had a lovely drive, going up Klippitztörl Pass and then across to an area in South Austria where we decided to check out a naturist camping place (we had 4 places in mind).  Needless to say we didn't like the area that the campsite was situated so we decided to carry on with our journey, more westwards, to see what the other 3 campsites were like.  We had to pass through the town of Klagenfurt which we didn't like much and couldn't wait to get through it and out the other side. We arrived at a lake, Keutschach am See, and tried the first naturist campsite (FKK Camping Turkwiese Kärntner Lichtbund) but they were full.  Being a hot day you could see that the lake itself is a very popular place.  We were advised to try 2 others further down the lake.  Success at the next one - FKK Camping Müllerhof.

We found a nice spot, shed our clothes and set the tent up without too many hiccups.  It is a new tent and a bit different from the usual types with tent poles.  This one has blow-up tubing that form the support structure of the tent.  3 arch-shaped supports.  For first time setting up, we didn't do too badly time-wise.  I resented having very nosy neighbours.  They were sitting in the shade of their tent, doing nothing, and stared at us throughout the entire time.  I was glad to get out of their sight when we went for a swim in the lake - we were very hot.  (Please be aware that I will not be allowed to take photographs of the campsite if there are people in it, and post it on this blog.  I may be able to take photos in the very early morning when nobody is up and about - if I can get up early enough!)

It's now after dinner time and it's nice to relax, hearing the nearby stream on the other side of the fence and the sound of crickets or grasshoppers.  Also mixed in with the evening sounds is the ongoing voice of our neighbour.  His voice carries and he can't seem to stop talking.  I hope he will shut up before we head to bed!

Water fountain at the top of  Klippitztörl Pass

Southwards We Head

Getting waylaid by the cat as we were leaving Lehnerhof

Today we decided to move on, heading southwards in the hope of finding better weather.  One of the resident cats at Lehnerhof waylaid us a bit, flopping onto its side in the car park right in front of our car.  So we spent a few minutes in its company.  We didn't mind - we had the benefits of the purring and resultant vibrations.  Stroking a cat does wonders to the soul.  Eventually the cat decided to check out something in a field so we managed to make a quick gettaway!

Fortunately our day started off with a bit of sunshine so we were able to make the occasional stop without  the fear of getting our tootsies wet.  We had no place in mind again - it was just a matter of driving where the road took us until we got tired.  We eventually got to the Sölkpass and, sod's law, it started to rain again so the views weren't great. Once we started to head down into the valley on the other side of the pass the clouds lifted.  We managed to catch sight of a rainbow, something that brings a lot of joy to my heart.

View from our room at  Jerà am Furtnerteich

We managed to find a BnB, Jerà am Furtnerteich, via the internet and plugged directions into the satnav.  Not a problem really but the satnav doesn't know when roads are closed!  We ended up having to look at a map and re-route ourselves but the satnav was NOT happy, just about swearing us for most of the way because we weren't going the route it wanted us to go.

We eventually found ourselves at what looked like an Italian Restaurant beside a lake.  Fortunately was also a BnB.  Our host gave us a very warm welcome and took us to our room via the outside stairwell rather than traipsing through the restaurant with our luggage. Our room is small but cosy and comfortable, and has lovely views over the lake where people were swimming.  There is also a small stream below us that seems to be feeding into the lake.

By the time we decided to go downstairs for a meal the restaurant was heaving - it seemed very popular with the locals.  Despite being busy, going having a meal there turned out to be a good choice.  The food was served quickly, it tasted very nice and our host and his family were lovely.

Time for zzz to the sound of the babbling stream below us.

More Pictures

Last views from Lehnerhof

Unfortunately we were too early to go inside this museum so
we had a wander outside

 Sölkpass

If you look carefully at this picture - there is a rainbow.

Panoramic view from our room at Jerà am Furtnerteich

Our route - north to south via the pass - but not as
per the google maps suggestion.

Austria - No Driving Today!

We were easily persuaded to stay at Lehnerhof for another night; a time to just relax.  We decided to visit the local Carriage Museum (Kutschenmuseum Gruber).  If you like old carriages, sleighs, cars, carts... - you would be in for a real treat.

Kutschenmuseum Gruber is a family run private museum where sleighs and carriages have, as one website puts it,  "been brought together with great effort and have been painstakingly restored in the carpentry workshop on-site. On an area of ​​around 1000 m², 82 vehicles of various types are exhibited.  Every single piece lives and tells its own story. Whether it is the sleigh with which Josef Werndl drove or the car traveling with Anton Bruckner, the pallet stretches from the heavy harvest van to various public cars to the elegant "Landauer" of the nobility and the black count."   We were bowled over by the lovely collection and spent quite a long time at the museum.  The courtyard of the museum is often used as an area for amateur theatre productions - indeed a lovely setting. Afterwards a lovely ginger and white cat was lying in the sun caught our eye and so we gave our undivided attention for a few minutes.  A young friendly tabby came and joined us, seeing attention for a bit.  It followed us out of the gate and to where the car was parked, across the road.  I know it wanted to come with us but we had to persuade it to go back home!

This afternoon we relaxed and spent time in the hotel's spa.  It was very nicely laid out and clean, complete with a relaxation area, bar and tables.  Our host gave us a towelling gown and carpet slippers (huge on me!) to use.  We ended up being the only ones using the spa but we reckon it is a favourite with the villagers (yesterday we had seen a 5 or 6 people leaving with their gym bags).

Certainly a lot of money has gone into the building.  The original building was a farmhouse and has been in the family for a number of generations, the farm going back at least 500 years.  It would house the family and farm workers.  Today the land is leased out and some of it has been sold off.   The family still manage the adjoining forest.  The family are friendly - we saw the children and made friends with the cats too.

I felt quite tired after the spa session so I had a nap and Paul watched a bit of this years F1.

We are staying in Großraming - somewhere on this map!

We wanted to eat at a different restaurant this evening but, on driving around, didn't find a place that took our fancy so we went back to the restaurant that we went to last night.  The food was good and oh so filling!

Tomorrow we are going to hit the road again. I hope we will come back to this area again - so lovely.

Feel free to see my photographs on facebook via this link:  Kutschenmuseum Gruber

A Hop into Czechoslovakia & on to Austria

Part of the grounds of Glasmuseum, Frauenau, Germany.
The museum itself was closed when we arrived - lunch time!

After a lovely breakfast we headed off, deciding to wander into Czechoslovakia because the border was not far from our overnight bnb. It started to rain again just as we got into the car so we were glad that we hadn't planned anything in the way of walking.  Simply driving around is a lovely way to see places, knowing that we can stop and go into more depth in a specific area if we want to.

Although we enjoyed the drive, including along the valley of a river, we found that quite a few buildings looked as if they were not cared for very much.  Perhaps things would have looked better if we had ventured further into Czechoslovakia and spent more time there, and perhaps over time people will have more money to care for their homes and buildings.  One particular area did look nice but it was a very new and 'touristy' - almost purpose built beside a lake.

The rain continued and the windscreen wipers started to complain so once we were across the border in Austria we looked for somewhere that sold windscreen wipers.  Success!  The car soon sported new wipers - it was happy and almost silent; and we were happy.

Following our haphazard route that we plotted using the map, we soon found ourselves driving over

An overall view of the route we took but via small
roads in a and more easterly direction at first.

beautiful passes and through lovely valleys.  With our stomachs rumbling, we decided to find a bnb and then some grub.  We found a place in the stunning Pre-Alps, set in a high valley in the mountains.

Once we checked in at Lehnerhof we were free to look for the recommended restaurant in the nearest village a few minutes drive away.  Or it would be a ½ hour walk.

Lehnerhof

We really like Lehnerhof (http://www.lehnerhof.co.at/) and I think we might stay another night.  We have been 'on the go' and in the car a lot so staying will give us time to do something different.

More Pictures

Log cabin under construction - beautiful!

Gorgeous house - I could quite happily live there!

Our room at Lehnerhof