Little Lolly's Small Adventures: At anchor off Taioha'e, Nuku Hiva. Excursion: Taipivai Valley scenic drive.

Yesterday was a sea day so I spent time starting to work on my blog and catching up as I've not written in ages. I've still got a long way to go!

The Maasdam dropped her anchor in Taioha'e Bay, not far fromTaioha'e. It was overcast and rain was predicted for later in the day. The tenders were soon sent out and guests could go ashore to explore or go on tour.

The island was beautiful and the people were very friendly. On the pier there was music and dancing; some of the local's gave us a warm welcome as we climbed up the pier steps from the tender.

My assigned tour group was split up between a number of private 4x4's or pickup trucks. The vehicle I got into seated 7 as it was almost like a safari vehicle. The vehicles owners made a bit of money by taking guests on 'organised' tours of their island and have a fixed route to follow; a group of cars going in convoy.

Temehea Tohua

Our first stop was at Temehea Tohua, an ancient ceremonial and meeting site in Taioha'e, not too far from where the Taioha'e pier. Unfortunately our vehicle was one of the last ones to leave because a guest needed to use the toilet facilities nearby. As a result of this our driver, Louis, didn’t seem to catch up with the group. We made 2 scenic viewpoint stops with no convoy in sight. At the one viewpoint we could see rain coming across the valley and it was getting very overcast where we stood. We were fortunate to get into the vehicle before the heavens opened up. It didn't last long though and soon the road and surrounding earth were steaming off in the heat.

View down to Taioha'e Bay and the ship

We drove down into Taipivai Valley and arrived at a site. I thought we had caught up with the convoy – only to discover there was another of guests – most of them from an earlier tour group. We had arrived a bit later than the others therefore the visit to the site was quite short. We barely had time to wander around the site, look at the arts and crafts or have refreshments. We were rushed and had no information of what the site was all about because I could not find our guide, Timi. (Later on I managed to find out where we had been - Te A’itua Temple.) Our driver, Louis, wasn’t helpful. I felt it was strange that he spoke a bit of English when he picked us up from the pier and at our first waterfront stop however when I asked him what the name of the site he suddenly didn't seem to understand English. A French couple tried to relay my question but they got some sort of an answer but didn’t tell me either.

Te A’itua Temple site

Taipivai Valley, per a crib-sheet I have of the tour, was made famous by a writer and sailor (Herman Melville) who deserted his ship and hid in the Taipivai Valley. He was found and captured by the idiginous natives and lived there for 3 weeks. As a result he wrote a book "Typee". Taipivai Valley was also used as a base camp for a television show "Survivor" that was filmed there in 2001.

Our driver, Louis managed to keep up with the convoy to Ho'oumi black sand beach but there was no description or information given. I couldn’t find our guide, Timi, and deduced that we were now with a tour group which had left earlier than my group. Towards the end of our stop at the beach I saw what looked like a guide, and asked her about the name of our
previous stop – Te A’itua. I

Te A’itua Temple site

couldn’t ask any more questions because guests were asking her things.

Back in the vehicles, ours being the last to leave, our driver followed the convoy but Louis once again lost sight of the convoy and we ended up at a local grocery shop/store for a few minutes for our group to experience an island style grocery shop. I tried to ask Louis where the rest of the group was but he didn’t seem to understand. I had overheard we were going to a Cathedral or church, being our next/final stop so asked him about it as well. Again Louis couldn’t understand. All the French-speaking couple could tell me was that we were here to experience an island style grocery shop. A few guests did buy snacks and drinks.

Heading back to the Maasdam on a tender

When we arrived at the pier I bumped into the woman I had spoken to at the beach – who turned out to be the guide for the earlier tour group. She asked me how things had been and I explained what had happened (see above) and the fact that we ended up at a grocery shop and not the Cathedral. She wasn’t happy and apologised. She said that the driver should have kept up or I should have come to her when we were at Te A’itua. I advised that I didn’t realise that she was the guide at that time – I was expecting to find Timi. Anyway, the woman advised she would pass my concerns on to the tour organisers. (I later learnt that our driver has been driving tourists around the island for a number of years and knows the route to take. He should have taken us to the cathedral but was just being lazy! The group we should have kept up with went to the cathedral after our very first stop. Instead we did the tour in reverse; catching up with the first group.)

MS Maasdam's route to San Diego

When I finally got back to the ship Paul was busy getting ready for the ship's departure - leaving around 2pm if all went well. I had a quick bite to eat and prepared my report for the shore excursions department before having a nap. I am still feeling a bit jet-lagged.

The Maasdam is now sailing towards San Diego, a 6 day crossing. I won't be bored as I have much to catch up on with my blogs.

PHOTOGRAPHS

Temehea Tohua