Sydney, Nova Scotia. Excursion: Cape Breton: A Cultural Exploration

At the Mi'Kmaq Reserve

Last night we stayed up to watch two young Celtic musicians.  To some, the music was great but to me – it was not the Celtic music or type of Celtic music that I expected.  On that ‘note’ I say no more.

Sydney was overcast on arrival with rain expected in the afternoon.  Still, it was nice to get out and about.

The excursion group I was assigned to was soon on the bus and on its way to Eskasoni on Bras d’Or Lake to visit the Mi’Kmaq reserve and learn a bit about the Mi’Kmaq culture on Goat Island.

We were warmly greeted by our hosts followed by a short lesson in their language and a few dance steps.  Guests were encouraged to participate and everyone seemed to be enthusiastic to verbalise words they were learning and also imitate dance steps.  Next up was learning how to make a bookmark with waxed sinew and very fine pieces of wood.  I had just sat down at a picnic table   when suddenly there was a noise and shout.  The bench along with its attached table, next to me, went over.  The combined weight of 4 adults seated / 0 adults sitting down on the other side of the table = unevenly balanced = 4 adults flat on their backs on the ground with their legs in the air.  Fortunately staff and fellow guests were quick to tip the picnic table back into place and help dust off those who had been ‘floored’.  One lady had bumped and grazed her head when she was dumped on her back.  She was checked over, but apart from a bruised head and scrape, she was fine.  The tour guide and I kept a close eye on her, though, throughout the rest of the day and a report was made as well.  We finally got to make our bookmarks – some done more neatly than others depending on hand dexterity.
Later on we were shown what is involved in a smudging ceremony - basically just being ‘smoked’ over.  A small amount of sweet grass was burnt in a shell and smoke was blown with a feather to an individual who would make washing motions, as if splashing themselves with water but with the smoke.  This is supposed to be cleansing, rejuvenating and healing.  Next we were shown woodworking process and the tools used, arts and crafts that the Mi’Kmaq make, and we got to taste a piece of bread that a lady made.  A piece of dough was put on a stick and she cooked it over a fire.  It was delicious.  Another woman (‘Sugar’ was her name) showed a basic game that the Mi’Kmaq play and guests could participate.  Towards the end of our visit we had a basic but delicious lunch followed by molasses cake.  Yum.

The next part of our tour took us through the Mi’Kmaq reserve and through to a village called Iona where we visited the Gaelic Highland Village Museum which depicts 4 eras in the history of Nova Scotia’s Scottish settlers.  I’m not sure how true it is or not, but apparently the buildings are all authentic, having been moved lock, stock and barrel or dismantled and re-built on the site.  Gaelic is still spoken on Nova Scotia and is taught in schools.  During the course of walking through the village a costumed character would tell us his or her story, about the house and what life is like at that particular point in history.  It included a stone croft, log cabin, church, house, shop, school house and forge.  We didn’t have time to visit the mill and it also started to rain so we headed to a hall on the premises, finishing off the tour with tea and Cape Breton Oatcakes.  Whilst having our snack, some of the staff sang for us.  It had been an interesting tour.  You can see my photographs on facebook via this link:  Cultural Exploration

We took a different route back to Sydney.  The scenery was beautiful despite the rain.  I was quite glad to get back onto the ship – I was starting to feel rather cold.

Next destination :  Charlottetown on Prince Edward Island