Uturoa, Raiatea, French Polynesia. Excursion: Anapa Pearl Farm

After a day at sea we docked in sunny ☀ Uturoa.  As always it is good to see land and to be able to step onto solid land (unless the island is floating!)  As soon as the ship had been cleared by Customs and Immigration people were hotfooting it off the ship to explore.

My assigned tour group met on the pier, perspiring profusely in the muggy 9am heat.  Just as the local people were warm and friendly, we also expected a nice warm island minibus to take us to meet our boat to Anapa Pearl Farm.  It was a minibus but it was modern with air-conditioning.  Oh bliss!  After a good 15 to 20 minute drive in the comfort of our wheeled icebox we stopped in a car park next between a school and a tiny (if you can call it) harbour where an outboard motor boat was waiting for us.  We heard music and drums playing and saw children having a traditional dance lesson in the playground under a corrugated roof shelter.

Fortunately a gentle sea breeze kept us cool as we beetled across the bay within the safety confines of the beautiful coral reef to a wooden shack on stilts.  This was the pearl farm base and close by were acres of buoys on which clams 🐚 were strung on ropes and anchored.  The wooden shack was rudimentary but it served a purpose for the work that the owners did with the clams.

Clams would be separated into different sizes and strung up together (per size group).  A tiny hole would be pierced very close to the edge of the shell and a string threaded through and attached to a rope which would be hung off the buoys.  Depending on water temperature, the ropes could be lowered or raised to maintain favourable conditions for clam growth and pearl production.    As and when the time was right, clams would be brought to the surface and the pearls removed in a type of surgical operation then an irritant (usually a piece of mother of pearl which it is likely not to be rejected) implanted back in to start the pearl formation all over again. Every now and then a graft would be done as well which would determine the colour of the pearl.  A clam’s membrane is examined carefully and, if of a nice colour, the clam is ‘sacrificed’ – cut open and a thin sliver of the outer edge of the membrane is carefully sliced off and cut into tiny pieces.  These tiny pieces would then be carefully surgically implanted into the membranes of other clams.  The colour of the membrane determines the colour of the pearl.  E.g. a black membrane will eventually produce a black pearl.  Pearls are polished before being graded into size, colour and perfection/flaws and then sent to overseas markets – these days mainly China and Japan.  Once a clam stops producing pearls then they are then cut open and the meat used.  The shells are also put to use – the inner shell is usually beautiful inside and is used for jewellery 💍, etc.  So nothing is wasted.

After a grafting demonstration and a pearl operating session we had time to look at flawed pearls, those of different shapes and sizes, and of course purchase jewellery with pearls that were in display cases.  We had time to have a swim 👙 and explore the coral reef from the pearl farm shack.  Some guests had brought along masks, snorkels and flippers, others hadn’t.  I was quite happy to swim without a mask and snorkel.  The water was beautifully clear and a nice temperature for swimming in without getting chilled.  Yes, the salt water stung my eyes  when I opened them under the water but eventually they got used to it.

Time went quickly and it was soon time for us to head back to shore in the boat to our waiting minibus.

Instead of taking a walk around the village and local markets after lunch Paul decided it would be better to wait until the heat of the day had passed and then go later.  So I had an afternoon nap whilst Paul worked.  We had a bit of a wander around town at about 4:30pm but unfortunately most shops had closed for the day.  We bought ourselves a nice cold ice-cream 🍦 and sat on a bench overlooking the harbour.  It was so nice to life passing by.  People were friendly and relaxed.  Water taxis were on hand to take locals across to their homes on small islands nearby.  A police boat was anchored near the ship.  It didn’t look busy but soon enough a small rubber duck drew up and its crew got off and headed onto the police ship. They had no doubt been on some form of exercise or out diving.  The sun started to set, the ship’s lights came on; all was wonderfully calm and peaceful.  🌅

You can see my photographs on facebook via this link:  Excursion: Anapa Pearl Farm

Our next destination:  Vaitape, Bora Bora